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Our experience has led to improving our customers outdoor environments for many years. Whether you are looking for residential or commercial services, or whether your project is small or large, we can design and build a backyard retreat, match your business’ reputation with a well-maintained commercial landscape — or tackle any project in between. Above all, we are distinguished by our high quality of work and commitment to customer satisfaction, before, after and during our projects.

Residential
We offer services to cover all of your needs from a touch-up to a complete rebuild. Patios, gardens, trees, grass and everything else you could need is what we do!

Commercial
Our professional staff will mainatin or upgrade your environment to match the reputation your buisness relies on.

Stop in today and experience our professional and personal service!

Lawn Mowing Programs

At Choice Landscaping we specialize in commercial and residential lawn mowing for properties of any shape and size. We will use the appropriate equipment to provide the groomed, finished, look you expect with straight mowing lines, string trimming around all trees, fences, siding, etc. and blowing grass clippings out of all plant beds, tree rings and off all paved surfaces. We can also provide services for you while you are on vacation. We use the proper equipment on each property is crucial to job quality and customer satisfaction. Using larger riding mowers completes most commercial properties; where as residential properties require the use of smaller (walk-behind) mowers to reduce potential damage that may occur. We can create and design a mowing program to fit your needs, mowing on a weekly, biweekly, monthly or as-needed basis. We also provide rough cut mowing of commercial and residential vacant lots on a monthly, occasional or on-call basis. We work with municipal inspectors to reduce or eliminate municipal citations issued for uncut parcels. Our experienced and courteous staff is committed to making sure your lawn gets the attention it deserves.

Lawn Fertilization

How to kill crabgrass, dandelions and other lawn weeds
Lawn weeds such as crabgrass and dandelions pose one of the most persistent — and annoying — challenges in the great American quest to grow decent grass. Some weeds are just a fact of lawn life. With a yank here and a zap of weed-killer there, weed control should be no big deal.  But if your lawn is losing the weed war, the first place to look is the quality of the grass itself and the soil under it.  Weeds are opportunists. They’ll quickly move into any bare spots. When grass plants beat them to the punch, though, they have no place to sprout. That’s why the best defense against lawn weeds is a good offense.

Heading off weed trouble
A good, thick stand of turfgrass solves weed problems faster than anything. If your lawn is thin, overseed it with quality grass seed. Quality grass seed means selecting a grass seed variety that is disease, drought and insect resistant.

Spring and late summer to early fall is an ideal time to seed the lawn, and it isn’t overkill to add new seed each year until the lawn is thick. Grass seed germinates best when it’s raked lightly into the soil surface and kept consistently moist until sprouting.  Grass will only grow as well as the soil underneath allows, so test your soil to be sure you’ve got the optimal acidity level (close to neutral or 7.0 on the pH scale) and adequate nutrients.  Remove soil cores with an aerator each fall if you’ve got compacted soil, which is common in sites that were heavily graded or where there’s a lot of foot traffic. Most lawn weeds tolerate compacted soil much better than grass.

One of the most important weed-fighting moves is cutting your grass high — at least 2 inches, or better yet, at 3 inches. Taller grass blades not only shade out baby “weedlings,” but taller blades mean more chlorophyll, which translates into more growth-generating food for the roots.

Monitor for bug and disease problems, and treat those before they get bad enough to undermine grass growth. When overseeding, choose newer grass varieties that have been bred for natural bug and disease resistance.

Finally, if you water your lawn, do it deeply and less often instead of shallow and frequently. Put on enough water that the soil is damp to a depth of 4 to 6 inches so the roots are encouraged to go down after it. Light waterings encourage grass roots to grow close to the surface, where they’re much more prone to dying off in summer heat.

Weed Control
How to kill weeds that come up anyway? Before taking action, you have to know the enemy.  The type of weeds you’re dealing with will determine what you use and when to use it.  Weeds fall into two main camps: annuals and perennials. (There are also a few biennials, but they’re generally treated like perennials.) Annual weeds are ones that sprout anew each year, live their entire life cycle in one year and then produce seed for the next generation. Perennial weeds are those that come back year after year. They also may set seed (or send out runners), but unlike annuals, they don’t die out with the season.

Some common examples of annual lawn weeds: crabgrass, goosegrass, barnyardgrass, foxtail, annual bluegrass, black medic, prostrate knotweed, prostrate spurge, purslane, common chickweed, corn speedwell, dog fennel and henbit.

Some common examples of perennial lawn weeds: dandelion, orchardgrass, quackgrass, nimblewill, yellow nutsedge, wild garlic, plantain, creeping speedwell, cinquefoil, ground ivy, clover, wild violets, yellow woodsorrel and hawkweed.

Even if you don’t know the exact names of your weeds, if you can at least notice whether they’re the same ones returning year after year or new ones sprouting from seed, you’ll have a better shot at selecting a weed control product that will prevent and kill weeds in your lawn.

Preventing weeds
For crabgrass control and stopping other annual weeds, the usual game plan is to apply granular weed preventers over the lawn in early spring — ideally right before the weeds germinate. These include products such as benefin (Balan), benefin and trifluralin (Team), pendimethalin (Pre-M and Halts) and prodiamine (Barricade) as well as corn gluten meal, an organic alternative that’s a byproduct of corn. All work best when applied 10 days to two weeks before the top inch of soil reaches 55 to 58 degrees at daybreak for four or five days. That’s roughly (although not always) around the time forsythia bushes start blooming. These products should be applied right before a rain. Otherwise, water them in within two or three days after applying.

What many lawn-owners don’t realize is that none of these products last all season long. Their effectiveness goes downhill after 8 to 10 weeks. That’s especially a problem when summers are rainy, which speeds the products’ breakdown and encourages crabgrass and other summer-annual weeds to keep sprouting — sometimes into August. A second shot of weed preventer put down about 8 weeks after the first one will give later-season weed control. In hot, droughty summers, the weather alone will solve this later-sprouting weed problem (although your lawn also most likely will go brown and dormant, too).

Timing is critical for weed preventers. Apply them too early, and you’ll shorten your later-control period. Apply them too late, and that first round of crabgrass will be up and growing. Further complicating things is that goosegrass starts germinating about three to four weeks after crabgrass, so the timing of a single application gets really interesting.

One solution is a relatively new product called Dimension, which both prevents new seeds from germinating and kills off young crabgrass and other weeds for the first few weeks after they’ve sprouted. Dimension-containing products are typically put down a few weeks later than traditional crabgrass preventers – about the time dandelion flowers are opening. This increased weed-control window increases the odds of getting season-long annual-weed control with just one application. Another approach is combining two different weed controls in one product — one that prevents and one that kills.

Killing weeds
Once weeds are up and growing, preventers won’t help. They also aren’t effective against existing perennial weeds. To kill weeds at this point, you’ll need a weed-killer (herbicide). Which one of those you use will depend on whether the weed is a grassy one like crabgrass or goosegrass or a broad-leafed one like plantain or dandelion.

Grassy weeds are generally thin, upright and recognized by long, narrow leaf veins that run up and down parallel to one another. Broad-leaf weeds generally have wider leaves that have a main vein down the middle with smaller veins branching out in a netlike pattern. Because these are two different kinds of plants, it’s possible to target weed-killers that will zap one without affecting the other. These products come both in granular form and liquid form.

The most common way lawn-owners use this type of product is in granular form, blended in bags with fertilizer and applied in spring as a “weed-and-feed” application. These work best on weeds that are up and growing and when applied after a rain or in the morning when moisture helps the granules stick to the grass blades. Treating the whole lawn with a weed-and-feed product makes sense when you’ve got weeds all over the whole lawn. But if you’ve just got a few patches of weeds here and there, it’s better to just fertilize separately and spot-spray the weed patches with a liquid herbicide.

Be sure to choose a product that’s labeled for broad-leaf weed control in lawns! These products are formulated so you can spray them on lawns without hurting the grass (assuming you follow the application directions and dilution instructions on the label).

Killing grassy weeds
The going gets a little tougher when trying to kill grassy weeds in lawns. Because these plants are botanically so similar to turfgrass, it’s much touchier to develop a product that targets one without hurting the other. 

There are a few products that kill grassy weeds such as crabgrass, goosegrass, yellow nutsedge and the like after they’re growing (i.e. MSMA, DSMA and Acclaim), but all work best when applied early in these plants’ growth stage. Unfortunately, most people don’t distinguish grassy-weed outbreaks until those weeds are so far along that grassy herbicides aren’t terribly effective. Even under ideal conditions, it may take two or three applications to dispatch a grassy-weed problem. This is why it’s much more effective to go after annual grassy weeds like crabgrass and goosegrass before they’ve sprouted. Plus, the chemicals used on grassy weeds aren’t labeled for use at all on most warm-season lawn grasses, such as St. Augustine grass or Bermuda grass.

The saving grace is that annual grassy weeds (like the aforementioned crabgrass and goosegrass) die off when frost arrives. But for perennial grassy weeds like orchardgrass and low-quality tall fescue, you’re probably stuck with either digging out these patches or spraying the infested area with a kill-everything-green weed-killer such as glyphosate . Be sure to check the product directions, to determine when it is safe to reseed the bare patches.

Best Time To kill weeds
Obviously, weed preventers must go down before the weeds sprout. Weed-killers, on the other hand, can be applied anytime throughout the season when the weeds are actively growing. Fall is even a very good time to go after perennial weeds as these plants attempt to store energy in their roots before going dormant for winter.

Just be careful about using weed-preventers and weed-killers around the time you’re trying to plant new grass seed. Most of these products will prevent or stunt the growth of new grass, except for products containing siduron (Tupersan). Check the labels for when it’s OK to plant grass before or after applying weed-control products.

Also avoid using weed-control products during droughts when your lawn is brown and dormant. Just stay off it then and do nothing other than water once or twice if the drought drags on more than a month after the lawn has browned. Worry about weeds and everything else after the lawn greens back up.

Lawn Aeration

Lawn aeration constitutes typically of only two things, controlling lawn thatch and reducing soil compaction. Lawn thatch is the layer of dead organic tissues that deprive the lawn from it's much-needed oxygen. Over time, soil compaction makes it difficult for grass to root. It disturbs natural rainwater irrigation, therefore it is important to aerate the lawn. This is especially true for lawns with high traffic. If people walk or even run over a lawn, the pressure generates compaction in the soil. When aerating very dense soil, it will ease the process when the lawn is watered the night before aeration. Always a good suggestion!

Why Aerate Your Grass
Aeration improves soil drainage and encourages worms, microfauna and microflora which require oxygen. It's simple really, with more oxygen to these items, the better health your grass can take on. It's all part of a simple ecosystem and aeration benefits.

Types of Lawn Aeration
There are two types of lawn aerators. There is the type that uses spikes to punch holes in the soil and there is the type that pulls out plugs of soil, also known as a core aerator due to the cores of soil removed. The latter is preferred if compaction is a problem, because while the spike punching lawn aerator only provides paths for air to contact the soil, the lawn aerator that pulls out soil also reduces compaction. For hobbyist lawn maintainers, there are also spiked shoes that can be used to aerate a lawn, these are much more affordable than larger lawn aerating machines. But these spikes, like the spike punching aerator, actually increase compaction by compressing the soil as the spike enters. This may be an acceptable result if aeration is the primary goal and compaction is not a problem.

Power Raking

Power Raking is a great way to remove the dead debris and crust that builds up on a lawn over winter. It is also a gentle way to remove a small amount of thatch from the lawn without causing the significant damage that dethatching can cause.

When is the best time to Power Rake?
Power Raking can be done in the spring or fall. If you are power raking to remove winter debris it is recommended to do it before the lawn starts growing to avoid setting the lawn back during the critical spring time growth. If power raking is being combined with over seeding we recommend doing it early spring to allow the new seedling plenty of time to get established before the summer drought and heat. Late summer/early fall remains the optimum time for any over seeding because you avoid the summer heat and drought and the new seedling do not have to compete with the spring germinating weeds.

Stump Grinding

Why Get Rid of that Old Stump?
Not only can unwanted tree stumps be an eyesore and a trip hazard, they also waste valuable outdoor space and can ruin garden equipment such as lawn mowers.  Even small stumps can take years to rot so the simple solution is professional tree stump removal. This will also reduce the risk of spreading fungal disease such as honey fungus if the tree stump is diseased.

Tree Removal

Why Get Rid of that Tree?
Unwanted trees can be an eyesore, waste of valuable outdoor space and a dangerous hazard! We take great care to protect your property and landscape during the process. We will completely remove your tree by using all safety precautions and taking care to keep limbs away from your home and/or buildings and sheds, phone/cable lines, fences and/or other trees. We will work with you to meet your needs for the job, no matter the size.

Spring & Fall Clean Up

Spring Clean Up
A typical spring clean up consists of raking and or power raking of the lawn to remove winter kill and excess thatch from the lawn. We also pick up trash, sticks and left over leaves from the fall on the lawn and in planting beds.

In spring it is also a good idea to:

  • Power Rake your lawn
  • Lawn aeration
  • Pruning
  • Mulch beds
  • Check gutters and roof

Fall Clean Up
A fall clean up is removal of leaves and sticks from the lawn and planting beds. We also cut the lawn on more time as it is a good idea to leave the lawn a little shorter for the winter time so you have a fresh start in spring. We can remove the leaves from your property or move to a place on your property that you would like.

In fall it is also a good idea to:

  • Lawn aeration
  • Pruning
  • Clean Gutters
  • Winterize irrigation systems
  • Plant wrapping and shelter installation

Bed Maintenance

Landscape Bed & Weed Maintenance
Service includes pre and post emergent weed control. Twice monthly, weeds and other debris will be removed. This service will help keep your beds clean and weed free throughout the season.

Bed Edging
We perform bed edging to maintain and create a clean, tailored look to landscape beds. Bed edging is also referred to as a “Natural” or “Victorian” edge. To attain this edge, our landscape crew uses a sharp spade or bed trencher to make a vertical cut in the turf at the edge of a landscape bed. We remove soil to a depth of 3 to 4 inches, at a 45-degree angle to the freshly cut vertical edge. With a rake, our crew will smooth the soil to slope toward the border plants; this creates a beveled cut.To maintain a clean line, the beds should be retrenched once a year or as needed. A Natural or Victorian edge will blend into any landscape and is as effective as any product for providing a barrier to grass and weeds and for containing mulch.

Gutter Cleaning

Stay safe and off your roof and let Choice Landscaping clean your gutters. Our service includes cleaning of all gutters and then checking downspouts to make sure they are clean and free of debris so water will flow freely. Once we are up there we will do a free roof inspection and look for popped up nails, missing shingles and any other issues we might see that do not look right.

Moss removal from your roof
The moss rooting system can pull up all of the sand granules that protect the roof from the sun. If you don't treat your roof the moss will reduce the life of your roof.

Snow Plowing

Living in Wisconsin provides us with four distinct seasons all of which call for different types of landscaping needs. We are open year round and offer specials and services for each season.

Snow Plowing
Choice Landscaping LLC, with over 15 years of snow removal management experience, has the knowledge and resources to handle all your snow removal needs.  You'll discover that we take great pride in giving our customers a safe winter environment with outstanding customer service.

Choice Landscaping provides complete snow removal services including snow plowing, snow hauling, de-icing, ice control, shoveling, sidewalk clearing and maintenance. In order to achieve this, we deploy a vast fleet of commercial grade snow plows, commercial grade snow pushers, front-end loaders and skid steers. We use the best de-icing products and facilitate complete winter services for corporate offices, retail stores, industrial properties, shopping centers, health care facilities and more.

Ice Melters

Living in Wisconsin provides us with four distinct seasons all of which call for different types of landscaping needs. We are open year round and offer specials and services for each season.

Ice Melters
We carry a variety of ice melters for your needs.

Roof Raking

Living in Wisconsin provides us with four distinct seasons all of which call for different types of landscaping needs. We are open year round and offer specials and services for each season.

Roof Raking
In winter months keeping your roofline and gutters clear of snow and ice is very important. If ice buildup goes unnoticed it can lead to significant damage to your home. Ice dams can form on your roof when snow that is not removed thaws then refreezes, expanding and in some cases freezing under the shingles. This ice then re-melts when it warms up and can cause severe damage to the ceilings and interior walls of your home. Removing the ice and snow from your gutters and roof edges will allow the snow and ice to run off the roof. Call or email us for a free estimate.